Amy's Bread | www.amysbread.com | News

Pastry Art & Design
April/May 2002
By Amy Sherber and Toy Dupree

ORGANIC FRENCH RYE
ORGANIC MICHE
ORGANIC WHOLE WHEAT IRISH SODA BREAD
ORGANIC WHEAT BAGUETTE

“What makes this bread ‘organic’? is a question we hear often from our retail customers as they examine four of the most recent additions to our bread counter at Amy’s Bread in Manhattan. The simplest answer is that they’re made from ingredients that are grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, or herbicides. But the real answer to the question has in fact become much more complicated in today’s food marketplace.

Not too long ago, thoughts of organic food conjured up visions of small local farms run by alternate-lifestyle farmers with a passion for saving the planet while providing the people in their communities with the purest foods possible to nourish their bodies. They used crop rotation, natural fertilizers, and natural weed and pest control methods to create ecosystems that developed sustainable soil conditions and protected the purity of the groundwater. They raised livestock under humane conditions, without hormones or antibiotics, allowing them to graze freely on the land, and feeding them organic feeds. The products they provided were close to their source and had gone through a minimum of processing. The giant agribusiness farm was their antithesis. The average consumer who wanted organically grown food was considered to be in the “health nut” category, and the only place on e could buy organic outside of roadside stands and farmers’ markets was at a health food store.

Today, as the general population has become more concerned with improving and maintaining their physical health and the health of their families, the demand for organic products has increased dramatically. The common perception seems to be that organic food is healthier because it’s grown without harmful chemicals and is also more nutritious. As a result, the organic segment of the retail food market has grown 20 percent every year for the past 10 years. The passionate local organic farmers are still out there working, but the big mainstream food corporations and agribusinesses have rushed in to get on the bandwagon too. Many major grocery chains now offer consumers a sizeable selection of organic produce, dairy products, breads, and other canned, packaged, or frozen organic foods. Unfortunately, much of the food is transported over great distances or highly processed with stabilizers, preservatives and other food additives before it reaches the consumer. Even the U.S. government is getting involved. In April of 2001, the U.S. Department of Agriculture released their rules for organic certification and labeling.

On the surface this seems like a step forward for organics, but not everyone involved is happy about it. There is considerable controversy over the direction the organic food industry is taking that falls generally into two camps. The small local family farmer and those who are genuinely concerned about the environment and sustaining our food sources are on one side; big business and those who are interested primarily in financial gain are on the other. The USDA has a tendency to side with big business. The details are too numerous to discuss here, but we’ve included some other information sources at the end of the article if you wish to explore this further.

Why We Chose Organic.
At Amy’s Bread, we choose to bake a line of organic breads because we personally believe in the long-term benefits of organic food production for both farmers and consumers, not because there’s a huge demand for it or because organic products are more profitable. In fact, our organic breads aren’t the biggest sellers in our retail stores, and we sell very few of these breads to our wholesale customers.

For us, choosing to bake with organic flours is a choice of philosophy. Our ingredient-buying dollar in the bakery goes mainly to the purchase of wheat. Wheat farming has been notorious for heavy pesticide use, abuse of the soil to gain higher yields per acre, and the use of hybrid seeds to create plants with higher yields. Wheat farmers make so little money for their crops and the price of wheat has risen so little for so long, that their main incentive is yield. That was until some farmers began to recognize that by growing organically, their wheat demanded a higher price per bushel, and once their land became healthy again, their yields actually increased because the soil was not stripped of nutrients by all the chemicals. It’s estimated that the U.S. lost more than 650,000 family farms in the last decade. Organic farming is helping more family farms survive once they recognize the benefits.

Organic farming also protects the water quality because groundwater that runs off fields and into streams, lakes and rivers is not contaminated. That directly affects the primary source of drinking water for a large proportion of our country.

We’re very proud of our organic line of breads. We internationally bake the crusts darker and use milder starters in them to let the full flavor of the grains come through. Organic is a choice we make to do our part to further the health of our bodies and the land. It’s our own quiet mission, and we hope that be setting an example, like many other bakers across the country have, we can raise awareness about the benefits of choosing organic.

Who Buys Organic?
The customers who buy our organic breads fall into three basic categories: The “Purist” whose philosophy mirrors our own, buys organic because they feel responsibility to support the health of their bodies and the planet.

The “Healthy Me” who exercises on a regular basis, buys organic because they want chemical-free good for a healthier body.

The “Whatever I Like,” who buys the bread simply because they like it. They would buy it even if it wasn’t made with organic ingredients.

Who Makes the Flour?
Arrowhead Mills makes a respectable line of organic flours available in small packages at health food stores. We used their Whole Grain Rye to test the French Rye recipe below.

Large natural foods markets and health food stores often have organic bread flours available in bulk bins to sell by the pound.

The following flours are available through commercial food purveryors, though not all brands are available in all parts of the country:

Champlain Valley and Community Mill and Bean are two brands available on the east coast. Both have several different kinds of organic flours available. Community Mill makes nice Dark Rye flour but the price per pound is quite high.

Cook’s Natural products (east coast and west coast) has a high quality line of organic flours. We have used their All Winter flour and their Coarse Whole Wheat and Fine Whole Wheat flours. They also have organic rye flour.

Giusto’s produces an extensive line of organic flours on the west coast, but their products are generally available through commercial suppliers on the east coast as well. We like their Old Mill Flour, Dark Rye Flour, and their Whole Wheat Pastry Flour.

Bakers should test flours that are available in their areas. There are many excellent organic flours on the market today. Absorption rates and baking characteristics vary greatly among types and brands of flour, so the recipes may have to be adjusted accordingly with this in mind. Don’t be discouraged if a recipe doesn’t work the first time you try it. You may have to adjust the amount of water used to accommodate the absorption rate of the flour you’re using.

ORGANIC FRENCH RYE

To make a salt sour, take some of a rye starter that you have already started and feed it in the following proportions for 2-3 refreshments until it becomes a strong salt sour.

Salt sour:
1.4 oz/40 g rye sour or salt sour
7 oz/200 g water
7 oz/200 g organic dark rye flour
.18 oz/5 g kosher salt

Mix all ingredients together until well combined. Let sit at room temperature until a network of bubbles shows throughout, then put in refrigerator. The starter may be held in refrigeration and used for 2-3 days until it needs to be refreshed.

Sponge:
.53 oz/15 g yeast
9.5 oz/270 g water
4.8 oz/135 g salt sour
9.5 oz/270 g organic dark rye flour

Mix all ingredients together and let rise for 1 hour. Sponge temperature should be 80 - 82_ F. Do not let sponge sit for longer than 1 hour or it will become too sour.

Dough: Sponge (from above)
21.2 oz/600 g organic dark rye flour
16.2 oz/460 g organic unbleached bread flour
27 oz/765 g water
1 oz/30 g yeast
1 oz/30 g kosher salt

Put sponge and all other dough ingredients in large mixing bowl.

Mix and knead dough for 3-5 minutes until flour is well hydrated, dough is smooth, and dough can be gathered into a rough ball. The dough will be very soft and sticky. (Dough temperature should be 80°F.) Let rise for 30 minutes. If room is warm, you may need to shape it before 30 minutes has passed. You will see small holes and bubbles developing in dough. Do not let it over-proof or it will not rise properly.

Preheat oven to 460°F. Divide dough into 21.8 oz/620 g pieces. Roll gently into 11” logs. Place loaves onto floured cloth to rise. Let rise 25-30 minutes or slightly less, but do not allow dough to crack or over-proof.

Do not score loaves. Move them gently onto oven loader or peel. Bake at 460°F. Mist with steam at the beginning; open oven door after 5 minutes and vent for about 5 minutes, then close again. Bake until loaves are firm and golden red in color, about 30-32 minutes.

ORGANIC MICHE

Yield: one 3-lb boule or two 1 1/2-lb boules

Miche levain (sourdough starter):
3.8 oz/110 g old levain (or other sourdough starter)*
5.6 oz/160 g water
4.2 oz/120 g organic whole wheat flour
4.2 oz/120 g organic dark rye flour

*use any sourdough starter that you already have and feed it in above proportions for 2-3 refreshments so it will have correct consistency and composition for this miche recipe.

Mix all ingredients together until well combined. Let sit at room temperature until a network of bubbles shows throughout, then put it in refrigerator. Refresh it every third day if its not being used daily.

Organic Miche:
23.8 oz/675 g water
5.8 oz/165 g miche levain (from above)
1 tsp fresh yeast, firmly packed
22.4 oz/635 g organic unbleached bread flour
7 oz/200g organic dark rye flour
.7 oz/20 g kosher salt

Put water, miche levain and yeast into bowl of 4 1/2 - 5 qt mixer fitted with dough hook. Mix on speed #2 until levain is broken into clumps.

Add remaining ingredients and mix on speed #1 for 5 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl after first 2 minutes.

Switch to speed #2 and mix for another 3 minutes. Turn off mixer and let dough rest in bowl for 10 minutes.

Mix at speed #2 for 2 more minutes, then turn dough out into a medium-size oiled bowl. (Dough temperature should be 77°F.) Cover with oiled plastic and let proof at room temperature for another 30 minutes. Dough consistency should be soft, but slightly springy.

Preheat deck oven too 480°F. Leave dough in one piece or divide dough into 2 equal pieces of about 28.2 oz/800 g each. Gently shape dough into boule (round ball).

Proof, seam side down, in a heavily floured basket lined with baker’s linen for best results. Dough may also be proofed on parchment-lined sheetpans, but loaves will spread and have a flatter profile. Cover with oiled plastic and proof at room temperature until almost doubled (about an hour in a warm room).

Flour tops of loaves in baskets and carefully turn them upside-down onto oven loader or peel. Score them with a sharp just before loading them into oven. Mist with steam at beginning of bake. If possible, open oven doors or vent to evacuate remaining steam at beginning of bake. If possible, open oven doors or vent to evacuate remaining steam after first 5 minutes of baking. Bake until loaves are a very dark brown and sound hollow when tapped on bottom (about 50 minutes for small loaves, 60 minutes for larger ones).*

* Note: if loaves were proofed on sheetpans, they should be baked on the pans. Loaves on pans take longer to bake than loaves loaded directly onto a hot deck. Cool completely before serving for optimum flavor and texture.

ORGANIC WHOLE WHEAT IRISH SODA BREAD

Yield: 10 wedges

8.8 oz/250 g coarse organic whole wheat flour
7.4 oz/210 g organic whole wheat pastry flour
1.8 oz/50 g organic sugar
3/4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp kosher salt
2.5 oz/70 g cold organic butter
.24 oz/7 g caraway seeds
5.1 oz/145 g organic raisins
13.4 oz/380 g organic buttermilk (if available) or use organic milk with 1 tsp white vinegar*
1 tsp/5 g baking soda
1 large organic egg
.88 oz/25 g organic molasses

*Note: If coarse whole wheat flour is not coarse enough, you may need slightly less buttermilk if the dough seems too dry. Dough should be soft and moist but not so soft that it can’t be molded.

In bowl of food processor, combine flours, sugars, baking powder and salt. Add butter and process until butter is in peasized pieces. Transfer mixture to bowl and stir in caraway seeds and raisins. Whisk buttermilk, baking soda, egg, and molasses in small bowl. Add to dry ingredients and stir just until moistened.

Divide dough into 2 equal pieces (they should weigh about 20.4 oz/580 g each). Form them very gently into rough rounds. Do not pack or roll dough; it should be more of a loose pile than a round ball.

Line a half sheetpan with parchment paper. Place 2 loaves on pan. Sprinkle tops lightly with flour. Score in 5 wedges. Mist lightly with water before baking.

Bake loaves at 400°F for 28-32 minutes, depending on wetness of dough. (You may need to reduce oven temperature to 350°F after the first 20 minutes. In a convection oven, bake at 375°F for 15 minutes then reduce temperature to 350_ F for 10-13 minutes.) Test center of loaves with toothpick. No wet crumbs should adhere. Do not over-bake or loaves will be dry. Place loaves on wire rack to cool.

ORGANIC WHEAT BAGUETTE

Yield: 4 baguettes

Poolish:*
7 oz/200 g water
3/8 tsp fresh yeast
7 oz/200 g organic unbleached bread flour

*Note: Make this at least 12 hours before you need to use it.

Put water and yeast into a medium bowl and stir with a wooden spoon to dissolve the yeast. Add flour and stir briskly until well combined.

Pour batter into a container that will allow it to triple in size. Cover with a lid or plastic film and let sit at room temperature until it just begins to rise (a few bubbles will be visible on the top of the batter). This may take several hours depending on the temperature of the room.

Refrigerate the polish and let it continue to rise overnight. Poolish is ready to use when it has tripled in volume, top has domed completely and is just beginning to deflate with small creases and dimpled on surface.

Ascorbic acid solution:
.18 oz/5 g pure ascorbic acid crystals (no buffers or other ingredients added)
17.6 oz/500 g water

Put crystals and water in a jar fitted with a tight lid. Shake to dissolve crystals. Store in refrigerator.

Organic wheat baguette:
14.6 oz/415 g water
14.1 oz/400 g polish (from above)
1/2 tsp fresh yeast, firmly packed
1/2 tsp organic barley malt syrup
.18 oz/5 g ascorbic acid solution (above)
19.5 oz/555 g organic unbleached bread flour
1.8 oz/50 g organic dark rye flour
1.8 oz/50 organic whole wheat flour, preferably coarsely ground
.5 oz/15 g kosher salt

Combine water, poolish, yeast, barley malt syrup and ascorbic acid solution in 4 _ - 5- quart electric mixer fitted with dough hook. Mix on speed #2 until poolish is broken into clumps.
Add remaining ingredients and mix on speed #1 for 5 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl after first 2 minutes
Switch to speed #2 and mix for another 3 minutes. Turn off mixer and let dough rest in bowl for 10 minutes.
Mix at speed #2 for 2 more minutes, then turn dough out into medium-size oiled bowl. Dough temperature should be 75°F to 77°F. Cover with oiled plastic and let proof at room temperature for 1 hour. Give dough a turn by folding it gently in on itself and bringing bottom side up. Proof for another 45 minutes. Dough should be soft but strong, and slightly puffy.
Preheat deck oven to 480°F. Divide dough into 4 equal pieces of about 13.2 oz/375 g each. Gently pre-shape each piece into a loose roll about size of a large potato. Cover with oiled plastic and let dough rest for 30-40 minutes, until almost double.
Shape each roll into a baguette. (Try not to degas dough too much or roll the baguettes too tightly or you will not get desired open crumb structure in your finished loaf.) Roll shaped loaves in flour for a rustic finish. Proof baguettes on a couche (floured baker’s linen), pleating cloth between each loaf, for best results. Dough may also be proofed on parchment-lined sheetpans, but the loaves will spread and have a flatter profile. Proof uncovered for about 35 minutes, until almost doubled.
Carefully roll loaves onto a baguette peel and place them onto oven loader or peel. Score them onto oven loader or peel. Score them with a sharp blade. Mist with steam at beginning of bake. Bake until loaves are a dark golden brown in color and sound hollow when tapped on bottom about 30 minutes.*

*Note: if loaves were proofed on sheetpans, they should be baked on the pans. Loaves on pans take longer to bake than loaves loaded directly onto a hot deck.

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